Friday, March 8, 2013

Egypt "Ay Oh Whey Oh"

Cairo
Something about the pyramids brought out our inner child.  Maybe it's because our elementary history teachers introduced us to such a majestic and far away place at such a young age, but a lot of it is probably due to being with such a fun group of people!  Regardless, we pulled out all the tricks in the book.  Yes, we kissed the Sphinx, we touched the tops of the pyramids, and we most definitely danced like we were in Mark Anthony's ridiculous music video, Rain Over Me .  Jamil as Mark Anthony, Stew as Pitbull, and Sara and I as the sexy dancers.  Gabriel and Abraham were more interested in attempting to remain asleep in the backpacks.
Jamil Musa (Olmsted 2011, Rabat), Stew Welch (Olmsted 2011, Tel Aviv), Sara Pulliam (Olmsted 2009, Cairo)
Abraham, what do you mean you don't remember us taking you to see the ancient pyraminds!?!  Thanks Stew, for toting around sleeping Abraham and giving my back a little break.
Egyptian Museum with King Tut's treasures above & Tahrir Square below.
The graffiti around Tahrir square spoke volumes.  Much of it is related to the Arab Spring.  In 2011, the long time ruler, President Hosni Mubarak, was ousted after mass and violent protests.  It all happened right here, and Sara had a front row seat!  Her stories are unbelievable and her courage is truly amazing.  She stayed as long as she could but was eventually evacuated from Egypt.  However, she couldn't get back fast enough.  We were truly fortunate to have met her and seen her in her element right before she moved.  For the most part, the people of Egypt are proud of their revolution, but they have a lot of work to do to build up their country.  In the light of a revolution, it's difficult to imagine daily life getting worse before it gets better.  Tourism brings in a lot of income for Egypitans, therefore many people are now suffering.  At the end of our trip, thousands of protestors scaled the American embassy walls and brought down the flag.  The unrest began after the release of a disturbing video promoted by Egyptian Coptic Christians in the United States.  Peace seems to be so far from the hearts of so many around the world.  I pray that Egypt will rise up as a strong and peaceful country opening her doors for all of us to enjoy such rich history. 
At the conclusion of each action packed day, Sara led us to the perfect hole-in-the-wall places with great food (ful, falafel & hummus galore) and magical atmospheres!  Whether it be a boat on the Nile, a dark and majestic restaurant, or take out in her amazing apartment, it was awesome!  What better way to end the day than with a hookah/sippy cups and great conversation?
The Zabbaleen people make up a small percentage of Egypt's Coptic Christian community, which is about 10% of the country.  They live in Muqattam, an area of Cairo with amazing views and a beautiful church that is carved into the side of a mountain.  Interestingly, they make a living by sorting and recycling the garbage of Cairo, which is evident from the dumps surrounding their village.  The church was magnificent, and we even witnessed a baptismal service, but I must say that driving through their neighborhood was quite humbling.
 At the Cairo market we purchased some beautiful tapestries.  Unfortunately, this once bustling market was fairly quiet, and many of the vendor's doors have remained shut since the revolution.
Above: The Hanging Church and Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church are located in Coptic Cairo.  It is said to be the spot where Joseph, Mary, and baby Jesus rested during the Massacre of the Innocents. They fled to Egypt before Herod ordered the execution of all baby boys near Bethlehem.  
Below: The Mosque of Muhammad Ali overlooks the bustling city and is located in the Citadel of Cairo.  We were able to go inside after removing our shoes and covering my head.  Tip: even in the heat of the summer, always travel with a scarf.
Nile Cruise
After several amazing days in Cairo, we flew to Luxor to set sail on a Nile cruise (our first cruise ever)!  Luxor is often referred to as the "world's greatest open air museum", and I would have to agree!  The temple ruins at Karnak and Luxor stand on one side of the Nile, and the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens rest on the opposite side of the river.  As we set sail further down the Nile we visited some of the best preserved temples of ancient Egypt, Edfu by horse drawn carriage and Kom Ombo in the evening light.  Our last excursions were by bus and small boat to Aswan and the Island of Philae.  Egypt has left a lasting legacy that continues to inspire people from all over the world, including the Musas.  I stand amazed!
Day 1: The East Bank (Luxor Temple & Karnak Temple)
 Day 2: The West Bank (Valley or the Kings & Valley of the Queens)
 Day 3: Edfu and Kom Ombo
 Day 4: Aswan, The Island Tour, and Philae Temple
Our boat, The Sonesta St. George
After each excursion, the highlight of the evening was getting to the swimming pool on top of the boat and the dance floor before dinner!  We always had the dance floor all to ourselves.  I'm not quite sure if this was because the age gap between our kids and the other guests was about 60 years or because we went to bed too early to catch how the elderly really broke it down.  Regardless, we had a blast and our fellow passengers loved watching and doting on the boys.
Egypt has a lot of offer, and I can't believe we were fortunate to have seen so much!  Taking the Nile cruise after Cairo was a great choice.  It was the perfect combination of relaxation and adventure.  By the end, we were definitely ready to crawl back into our own beds in Morocco.  Much thanks to Sara for being such a generous host in Cairo and for recommending such an amazing cruise.  This was truly and unforgettable adventure!  Shukran Jazeelan! 

1 comment:

  1. Looks like an amazing trip! I have a cousin who owns/operates a guided tourism company in Cairo and I've been begging Howdy to go for years!! :)
    (His company also does tours in China, Jordan, Nepal and Turkey - www.backpackerconcierge.com)

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