Thursday, March 28, 2013

Southern Morocco

Absolutely nothing about this trip was planned or prepared ahead of time.  We were literally flying by the seats of our pants.  However, our life as an Olmsted family has definitely prepared us for adventures such as these.  Our beloved neighbor invited us to join him at one of his sponsored races in a little town in Southern Morocco, Assa.  Jamil just happened to have a small break from school, and we had never traveled that far south, so we eagerly hopped on board.  This was an open door to experience the Moroccan desert lifestyle in some of our uncharted territory.  Once plans were confirmed (kind of), we purchased airline tickets the day before departure.  We farewelled the Hensarlings on their way to Fez, quickly packed our bags, and jumped on a tiny airplane to Agadir.  Khalid, being so thoughtful and considerate of our children's needs, insisted on driving our car down for us so that we would have safe car seats for the kids.  Is he awesome or what?  Southern Morocco, ready or not, here we come!

Assa
Once our plane landed in Agadir, we settled in for the night and spent the next day driving to our hut like hotel in Icht, about an hour from Assa (some might say in the middle of nowhere).  Gabriel woke around 3am breathing heavily and with a fever.  We contacted the off duty nurse at the embassy clinic and drove to a pediatrician in Assa the next morning.  Gabriel vomited when his fever broke early in the morning (the morning of the race).  After waiting in someone's home to see the town pediatrician, we were given medication (approved by our clinic), and Gabriel was making a quick turn around.  Luckily, his bug only lasted from around 3am -11am.  It was a long night and a wild start to our desert adventure!  The race happened to be running on standard Moroccan time, 3 hours late, so Jamil was still able to join the other runners to compete in the annual Assa 10K race.  Mind you, these racers were elite and Jamil was just hoping to not come in last.  He succeeded and ran his fastest 10K in years!  We pulled up next to the white camel statue and watched most of the race from the comfort of our car.  I realize that a car might not seem very comfortable, but after spending so much time in our Toyota these past few years, it's like our vacation home.    
The high winds had Jamil looking a little hot and bothered and had him begging me for my girly sunglasses.
You're not likely to see a desert woman in a black hijab.  They love color, pattern, and even texture, as you can see!
One of Khalid's runners, Hanan,won third place out of all of the women.  This girl is FAST!
Sidi Ifni
Throughout this adventure, we were subject to the whims of Khalid's whirlwind travel schedule, but he most certainly did not disappoint!  After the race, we drove to Guelmim (the Gateway to the Desert), where we stopped for a lunch of camel meat and tagines and bought some argan oil, which is grown here in the southwest of Morocco.  We pushed onward towards Sidi Ifni on the coast and came upon a hidden jewel of a hotel on an ocean front cliff in Mirleft.  Khalid kindly purchased souvenir scarves for our family, which were perfect on the beach with the high winds.  He taught Jamil the invaluable skill of how to wrap his scarf like a true desert man!  Once we got a good night's sleep, we set off to explore the port town of Sidi Ifni, Mirleft, and the hidden and beautiful Legzira Beach. 
Legzira Beach
This brilliant beach lies between Sidi Ifni and Mirleft and was definitely the highlight of our trip.  After passing the turn a few times, we finally discovered the secret path.  Shortly after turning off of the main road, you must continue down a steep, unsigned, dirt track that honestly looks a little shady.  However, once you slowly round the corner, a small, pink village appears.  We parked behind the buildings and walked down the stairs to the beach.  Stunning sandstone arches were just a stroll away.  Jamil and I dodged the tide as we walked through the arches and enjoyed the inspiring view.
Mirleft
Welcome to Dar Najmat!  Isn't the door just magnificent?  This relaxing boutique hotel is located on a cliff overlooking the Atlantic.  Our favorite thing about the area was that there weren't a lot of people, and there simply wasn't a lot to do.  Most travelers come here for camping and escaping the busy lives we all lead.  The hotel owner and several other foreigners have left their busy lives for good to enjoy a more simple lifestyle with natural, beautiful surroundings.  It makes you wonder...  This small town simply calls you to relax and enjoy the view.  We've been on the go go go so much these past two years.  Therefore, this was just what the doctor ordered for the Musas.  Maybe next time we'll rough it a little more on the camp grounds. ;)
Tiznit
As we headed back North to Rabat, we passed through the small town of Tiznit.  Jamil found a Maroctelecom where we could pay our cell phone bill.  Lack of direct deposit /online payments plus last minute whirlwind trips can make situations like these slightly more difficult but not impossible.  Finally, we dropped by the market that is known for its silver jewelry, daggers, and sabers.
This trip was truly an unexpected gift!  We are so fortunate to have traveled to these small villages and towns and seen yet another lifestyle here in Morocco.  Thank you to our dear friend, Khalid, for such a generous invitation.  You have provided a deeper look into Moroccan culture and have been our teacher in many ways.  Several of our fondest Moroccan memories include you.  Shukran Bezaf!