Wednesday, April 5, 2017

Hoi An, Vietnam

Vietnam has been at the top of our traveling list, so we were thrilled to get the opportunity to visit the charming city of Hoi An, which translates to peaceful meeting place.  The city's Old Town is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Sight, because it is such a well preserved South-East Asian trading port.  It feels as if you are stepping back in time as you walk the pedestrian streets adorned with colorful, handcrafted lanterns and watch the floating lanterns pass by in the Thu Bon River.  French colonial style buildings, with their worn yellow paint and shutters, give this vibrant city even more charm.  

As if the ambiance wasn't enough, the shopping is incredible!  Custom bags, shoes, and clothing are affordable and quickly turned around.  Traditional ceramics, lanters, wood work, paintings, and embroidery fill the shops.  For $25, I got a pedicure, massage, and eyebrow threading...and then there's the food!  Fresh, local, Vietnamese food can be found during the day at the food market where women wearing traditional, conical hats carry yokes full of colorful produce.  There were numerous choices of restaurants and cafes scattered between the shops and plenty of street vendors as well.  Our kids even loved many of the dishes, as the recipes tend to be simple but tasty and fresh.  The Pho was PHOnominal!  I'd highly recommend participating in a cooking class, but our itinerary and children's schedules just didn't line up.

The chaos of the markets and mopeds and the serenity of the lanterns and water made for such a memorable adventure; one that I hope will forever be etched into the memories of our children.  River boats, beaches, markets, shopping, restaurants, spas, ruins, and lanterns galore...what more could you ask for?
After not sleeping a wink on the plane, Mariam finally relaxed in the taxi and filled her britches...all the way up her shirt!  That was a fun one to clean up squeezed between two boys with her on my lap in a moving taxi.  I swear, just getting there is always the hardest part!  She crashed in the stroller as we explored the city in the rain.
We stayed right on the river at the Anantara Resort, which is the only resort in the Old Town.  The hotel's yoga teacher was so impressed with the boys as they joined me for classes.  A world of unique history and culture was just steps out of our hotel, which made it easy to come in and out with the kids. 
The daily food market above was definitely a sensory overload type of experience!
Below, the arched Japanese Bridge was built in the 1590s to link the Japanese community to the Chinese quarters.  The street beyond is lined with cafes, shops, and art galleries but is fairly quiet due to far less people who are willing to pay the bridge fee.  We bought some embroidered items and a small bird wind up toy pictured below.  The bridge fee is to see the small temple inside, and the entrance is guarded by statues of a monkey on one side and and a dog on the other.  Some say that these animals represent the lunar calendar birth years of many Japanese emperors and that construction of the bridge began in the year of the monkey and was completed in the year of the dog.   It is also said that the Japanese believed that the heart of Asia (the dragon) lay beneath the earth of Hoi An. 
Mariam quickly got over sitting with daddy after their cyclo driver took off down the streets.  She became obsessed with my hat, surprise surprise, and wore it most of the trip.
Practicing TKD while waiting for our street food: egg baguette sandwiches for less than a dollar!
This sweet old face is not going to let you by without buying a floating lantern.
The chaos of the wires and the charm of the cafe made this our favorite painting.  Too bad it was taller than me, since we were looking for something on a smaller scale.
Cross the pedestrian bridge to the An Hoi peninsula for the night market full of trinkets and crafts.
Back in the main quarter, we purchased one of the turquoise gongs behind the boys.
Experience the calm and quiet of the city with an early morning run.
One on one time with the boys!
My Son Sanctuary
This World Heritage Sight consists of 71 Hindu temple ruins that were built starting in the 4th century.  My Son, surrounded by lush mountain ranges, may have been the spiritual capital of Champa, but the large craters we saw were a humbling reminder of the damage caused by US bombs during the Vietnam War.  It is still a mystery how the Champa people built these magnificent structures.
Cyclos were everywhere, even a miniature one at the hotel!  I didn't dare ride the hotel bikes out of the roundabout and into the streets with our three, but cycling would be a lovely way to see the city.
On and off sprinkles at the beach
The East Vietnamese Sea, more commonly known as the South China Sea, was a short cab ride from the Old Town.  Had our vacation been any longer or sunnier, we would have spent more time on the beach.  However, we preferred spending most of our time in the Old City.
Above, an artist's cafe, my custom bag and tassels, my favorite little temple, and our custom shoes.
Below, we saved the river boat for our final night.