Friday, December 16, 2011

Marrakech

We lived in Morocco for nearly five months before visiting it's main attraction, Marrakech.  The wait was mainly due to the summer heat.  It is indeed a neat, yet touristy city.  We learned about its plentiful history during an evening stroll with a tour guide recommended by our riad.  Despite this, there is an overwhelmingly gimmicky feel to the place.  After hearing so many people praise the Jamaa el Fna, we felt let down.  Although the famous square is a mesmerizing scene in the evening, it has somewhat of a depressing feel (especially during the day) as performers and vendors pander to folklore and oriental stereotypes.  The snake charmers (yes, there were cobras hanging out just feet away from us) and monkeys on leashes seemed to take away from any remnants of authenticity.  This was the first place we visited where cab drivers and merchants alike initially quoted outrageous prices.  It is indeed a tourist market.  Nonetheless, we have already passed through Marrakech again on our way to the desert (post coming soon) and will more than likely return at some point.
This is where they make all kinds of beautiful scarfs and material.  They even have a new technique of making silk-like products from cactus!
In the distance you can see the Koutoubia Mosque.  Legend has it that the globes on top were originally made of pure gold.  The wife of Yaqub el-Mansur donated the fourth globe, which was made from melting her own gold jewelry, after failing to keep the fast for one day during Ramadan.
Our tour guide introducing us to "The" carpet guy.  His store is right in the middle of the Jamaa el Fna (pictured above) and was recommended to us by a man in Rabat.  We went there in hopes of buying a carpet.  Luckily we walked away empty handed, as we have since learned that we can go directly to the Berber women who make the carpets and walk away with a much better deal!
The nice family at the riad offered to watch our children so that we could enjoy our tour as a couple.  We had every intention of lugging them along with us.  However, we're not ones to turn down childcare.  Only ask if you really mean it, because we will dropping diapers in your hands and out the door in a matter on minutes!  Although I'm eager to get out the door, I'm always anxious to return.  We were relived to find our children happily playing with the hotel family staff.  Unfortunately, not everyone was happy to listen to the laughter and cries of our children...
The possible highlight of this trip was getting kicked out of our riad the next morning.  Yes, this was quite humiliating.  The owner assured us that she saw no problem with our kids and that the Spanish customers had no complaints.  However, the British couple was not happy to be sharing such tight quarters with our family of 4.  How funny that she pointed out the cultural stereotypes!  She nicely walked us around the corner to her other riad, which was nearly empty.
It was actually a sweeter deal than the first riad, and we were not obligated to pay anymore than the price of our original room!  We truly can understand the complaints of the couple expecting a exotic sans kids vacation.  Nonetheless, we were still pretty embarrassed.
One great thing about staying in riads is that they generally provide a dine in option.  This is a win-win situation; the kids get to stay in a comfortable environment (with staff even occasionally willing to hold a baby), and the ambiance and food are always excellent!
The riad staff came out to wish us farewell, and one of the ladies even teared up when saying goodbye to our little ones.  Gabriel is a fan of these carts, and we're happy to be carrying one less child out of the medina!  Bislama, Marrakech!

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